Posts filed under 'Notes on Ingredients'
Normally I am the first person to say, "I am an omnivore, and I don't have any dilemmas"- which isn't exactly true. I participate in Meatless Mondays and really try to carry on the practice 4 times a week. I care greatly about the presence of genetically modified foods in our country. And every spring there comes a need to re-set my eating habits.
Last year Kimberly wrote about her 21 Day Vegan Cleanse. I have just completed a 14 day cleanse that was brought on by my allergies and a need to kick some bad habits that had formed over the past few months. In the process I began to really think about my relationship with food. I am not the only aging food professional who has been on this quest of late either.
Well known NY Times columnist, cookbook author, and blogger Mark Bittman wrote about being vegan before dinner when he learned that he needed to shed some weight for health reasons. Peter Kaminsky's soon to be released book Culinary Intelligence explores how to maximize flavor per calorie. In his own words "This book is all about pursuing the pleasures of the table on the path to good health." And this piece about sugar as a pro-oxidant on 60 Minutes was incredibly interesting to watch and equally compelling to greatly reduce my intake of simple sugars.
In any event, I certainly don't prescribe to the Kate Moss school of "Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels." However, there is something about spring that makes me want to rid my house and my body of built up toxins. In the process of greatly reducing the amount of calories I ate everyday, not drinkning alcohol, gluten, dairy, sugar or meat, and thinking carefully about what I ate for 14 days I came to an understanding about my eating habits. The end result was a few less pounds, greatly improved sleep and many new recipes and products that I am going to start incorportating into my life (see below).
Before going on my vegan cleanse I thought that not eating meat and cheese for that long would be really difficult. Interestingly enough the hardest things to give up were sweets and wine. Which made me realize that I really needed to make a simple change in my eating habits and replace those cravings with better choices.
Pantry staples for an enjoyable cleanse:
South River Miso – Dandelion is a natural diuretic so this was a flavor I used. Don't hestitate to try all their amazing types of miso.
Rejuvila – Use this is your smoothies. I made it with freshly squeezed orange juice and a banana.
On the days when I needed protein I added a scoop of this raw protein powder which is made from a plethora of raw organic sprouted grains and beans. No, it doesn't taste good but it did the job.
Nettle Tea by Traditional Medicinals
Deep Cleasnse Tea By Bija
It's easy enough to make nut milks but there are quite a few unsweetened milk alternatives on the market that are quite good. I especially like the new cashew, almond hazelnut flavor (which isn't on the website) from Hain Celestial. Some of them have only 50 calories and taste great in chai but are also good for smoothies.
Kale – Making kale chips was a critical as it gave me something crunchy and slightly salty, I also got in the habit of putting a raw piece of kale into freshly squeezed orange juice and blending it up. Spinach works well too.
If you need something creamy to eat, cashew hummus will satisfy.
When is the last time you re-evaluated your relationship with food? If you make the effort for spring cleaning your home, maybe it is time to consider a spring cleanse for your body?
May 4th, 2012
The idea for these brownies came from Martha Stewart's Cookies Cookbook. I did not care for the texture of the brownie in that recipe as it was far too cake like, so like flavoristas tend to do, I came up with my own version.
Then I stumbled upon the BEST brownie mix ever – Ghiardelli's Double Chocolate. I like my brownies ooey and almost gooey and this mix delivers. They actually come out as pictured on the box. Lucky for me they sell it in bulk at Costco here in Boulder. I highly recommend that you have this in your pantry as they are quite simply delcicious.
The peanut butter topping does come from the Martha's book but I adapted it for these brownies. If you like Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, these are for you.
Peanut Butter Swirl
I haven't tried it yet, but this filling might also be good as a sandwich cookie filling, think homemade nutter butters.
2 Tbsp. butter, melted
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter (I prefer chunky but the kids don't)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/8 to 1/4 tsp. salt coarse sea salt
1/4 cup confectioner's sugar
Procedure:
Make the brownies according to the recipe on the box and pour into your prepared brownie pan.
For the peanut butter swirls, place all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix well.
Using a spoon, (or as I prefer a small 1 oz. ice cream scoop), place dollops of the peanut butter just on top of the batter. Using a sharp small knife, place the tip in the center of one of the peanut butter dollops. Now carefully fan the peanut butter out into the batter. Do this on each dollop making longish type swirlies (as pictured above).
Bake for the time as indicated on the brownie box for the pan size you use. I like to use the larger sizes brownie pan as the peanut butter doesn't spread but sets up where it is on the brownie. The brownie batter also tends to rise up around the peanut butter.
It doesn't hurt to sprinkle a few chocolate chips over the top as well.
April 18th, 2011
Spring's fickle weather is upon us. Somedays summer seems just a few days away and then….it snows. Ah well. Still time to enjoy a few one bowl dinner stoups. This one was inspired by the Bread Works here in Boulder. Top it with a 1 teaspoon of this lovely harissa from Les Moulins Mahjoub.
It is one of the best harrissas I've had and is very unique as far as most harissas go. Instead of being a paste, it's actually more flaky, as seen in the picture above. I use this harissa like I would Sirachca as a garnish on all different types of dishes for an added element of heat.
Moroccan Chicken and Couscous Soup
Serves 5 to 6
1 medium sweet potato
1 small zuchini, cut into large 2-inch chunks (optional)
1 medium yellow or white onion, diced
2 medium carrots, diced
1 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cumin seed, toasted then ground (or you can use regular ground cumin)
1 (12-ounce) can crushed tomatoes (or diced, whatever you happen to have in your cupboard)
6 chicken thighs or breasts
salt and pepper
olive oil
6 cups homemade chicken broth
1/2 to 1 Cup Israeli or Jordanian Couscous (depending on how thick you like your soup)
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Peel and cut the sweet potato in large 2-inch chunks. Toss with a little olive oil, salt and pepper and spread out over a cookie sheet. Place in the oven and roast until the potatoes are just beginning to brown and get soft when touched with the end of a knife. Do the same thing with the zucchini, if using.
Meanwhile, heat a large casserole over medium heat and cover the bottom with nice thin layer of olive oil. Add the diced onion and cook until translucent. Add the carrots and stir to incorporate and coat all the vegeables with the oil. Season with the spices and stir well. Add the tomatoes, cover and let cook for a few minutes.
Bring the broth to a boil in another pot and cook the couscous, about 8 minutes.
Once the vegetables are done roasting, add them to the casserole on the stove and pour in the broth and couscous. Lower heat and allow to simmer. You might want to add more liquid depending if you want more of a soup or a stew.
Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper. You can roast the chicken or grill it. Once it is cooked, cut it into large chunks on the diagonal. Adjust seasonings on the stoup and ladle into large bowls. Top with the cooked chicken pieces, a heaping teaspoon of harrissa and enjoy. Optional garnishes include chopped fresh cilantro and crumbed feta cheese.
April 14th, 2011
Have the last few days inspired you to slow down a bit and sip some tea? We hope so. Not only do Barr and I love the flavor of tea, we love the tradition of tea and the versatility of tea. Be sure to scroll down for the recipes that would be perfect for holiday entertaining.
Cynthia and Lise’s book, Culinary Tea has given us some fabulous ideas. We have one book to give away for one lucky flavorista. Simply leave a comment to this post and we will enter your name in the drawing. We will close the contest one week from today. Cheerio!
Jasmine Tea-Cured Gravlax from Culinary Tea
Serves 16
We think that this gravlax would make for some pretty sensational party fare served on toast points with just a touch of creme fraiche. Pair with a nice, dry sparkling wine.
2/3 cup sugar
2/3 cup kosher salt
1 whole side of salmon (3-4 pounds) preferably with skin on
1/2 lemon
1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, more to taste
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh dill
1/2 cup loose-leaf jasmine green tea leaves
In a large bowl, combine the brown sugar and salt. Spread a large piece of plastic wrap on a work surface. Take ½ of the sugar-salt mixture and spread it on the plastic wrap to be roughly the size and shape of the salmon side.
Place the salmon on the sugar-salt mixture, skin-side down. Check that no bones remain in the salmon, squeeze the lemon over the skinless side, then spread the black pepper and garlic over evenly. Sprinkle on the dill and the tea. Spread the remaining 2/3 of the sugar-salt mixture over the tea leaves.
Bring the plastic wrap up around the salmon to enclose it very well. Place the wrapped fish in a large pan that can hold the fish lying flat. Place a 2nd pan on top so that it presses down on the fish. Place canned goods on the 2nd pan to weigh it down. Refrigerate.
Flip fish over every 12 hours. After 24 hours, unwrap the fish and check for doneness – it should be firm and translucent, similar to smoked salmon. Depending on the thickness of the fillet, it should take between 24 and 48 hours to cure. Wipe the sugar-salt mixture and seasonings away from the salmon.
To serve, cut cured salmon thinly on the diagonal. When you reach the skin, curve the knife upward and the fish will release easily. Leftover gravlax should be wrapped well in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 10 days.
Orange Spice Tea-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Mango Peach Salsa from Culinary Tea
Serves 4 – 6
We love that this pork can be served at room temperature of cold. It can be tough to procure fresh peaches in the winter, so substitute frozen peaches or just use two mangoes.
Pork
2 (1-lb.) pork tenderloins, cleaned of excess fat and silver skins
1/4 cup Eleven Spice Tea Rub (recipe below)
2 cups orange juice, more as needed
Salsa
1 fairly firm mango, peeled
1 fairly firm peach, peeled
1 medium red bell pepper
1 small red onion
1/2 to 1 small habanero pepper or 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
zest and juice from 1/2 orange
1 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar
1/2 tsp. Eleven Spice Tea Rub (recipe below)
2 Tbsp. light brown sugar
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro, basil or parsley
fine sea salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
Prepare the pork: Rub the pork tenderloins with the tea rub; cover well and refrigerate overnight or up to 3 days.
To make the salsa: Dice the mango, peach, bell pepper, and onion into 1/4-inch dice and add to a medium bowl. Seed and cut away the membranes of the habanero and finely mince (it is a good idea to wear kitchen gloves when cutting this fiery chile). Add to the mango mixture.
Add the lime juice, orange zest, orange juice and the rice vinegar. Sprinkle in the tea rub, brown sugar and fresh herbs. Season salsa with salt and pepper. Stir well. Cover and chill until you are ready to serve.
When you are ready to cook the pork, preheat the oven to 375°F. Remove the pork from the refrigerator and place it in a small roasting pan. Pour the orange juice in the pan and ¼ of the way up the sides of the tenderloins; add more juice, if needed.
Roast the pork uncovered, basting frequently with the orange juice (2-3 times) until desired doneness (if you prefer pink, 150°F on an instant read thermometer). Depending on the size of the tenderloins, this may take as little as 18 minutes or as long as 30 minutes, so check frequently.
If serving hot, allow pork to rest 8-10 minutes before slicing on the bias to serve. If serving cold, chill the whole tenderloin until needed, then slice on the bias. Stir the salsa before serving, adjust seasonings, if necessary.
Eleven Spice Tea Rub from Culinary Tea
5 Tbsp. finely ground full-bodied black tea leaves (Chinese congou, Ceylon, and Niligiri)
1/4 cup light brown sugar
2 tsp.ground cinnamon
1 tsp. curry powder
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 tsp. ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. ground star anise or anise seed
1/2 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 tsp. ground fennel seeds
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. ground mace
Combine all of the ingredients in a medium bowl, mixing well until thoroughly combined. Store in a tightly sealed jar or tin at room temperature for up to 2 months.
December 6th, 2010
If you are weary of all of the holiday overindulgence that is about to ensue, I suggest you continue to read for a recipe that you can feel good about and have your chocolate too.
Chia seeds are becoming the buzz ingredient in many natural foods products. This is a recipe I developed in 2004, it was featured in Eating Well magazine. Alas a search on their site did not reveal that recipe. Back then flax seeds were the rage, and they are still very good but chia has some distinct advantages.
They are high in protein, fiber and unlike flax, you don’t have to grind chia in order to get the benefits of the omega 3 fatty acids and ALA. Chia is also high in calcium, iron and in anti-oxidants. Chia does not contain phtyoestrogens like flax does. This is only a concern for those of you who are trying to reduce the amount of estrogens that you are getting from food. That said I do recommend that you use chia meal in this recipe. Seeds work too but they have a tendency to stick in your teeth.
Unlike flax, chia is not as easy to grind in a coffee grinder because of the small size of the seeds. Cold milled chia seeds are available at good natural foods stores or online. If you can’t find them or don’t want to bother, then use ground flax seeds or replace the seeds with a nut flour. The cake will still be delicious and offer you more stealth health in form of fiber, vitamin e and protein than a regular piece of chocolate cake.
Plum butter, like apple sauce, can be used as a fat replacer in baking. Making dried plum butter is easy. You simply take 1 cup of putted dried plums (aka prunes) and rehydrate in 6 Tbsp. boiled water. Let that sit for a few minutes then puree in a food processor until very smooth. This will make 1 cup of puree. If you don’t want to bother than you can purchase fat replacer.
I chose to use plum butter because the flavor is actually very complimentary to cocoa. I like to say it acts as a potentiator in that it helps to round out and enhance the cocoa flavors in a positive way. It is also a great source of antioxidants.
Bottom line: My kids snarfed the cake and I felt good knowing that their afternoon snack proved them with 7 grams of protein, 3 grams of fiber and antioxidants in a 250 calorie piece of cake.
Feel less Guilty Chocolate Bundt Cake
1/2 cup almond or hazelnut flour (hazelnut is especially good here but has more flavor than the almond)
1 1/4 cups flour
1/2 cup milled chia seeds
3/4 cup cocoa powder
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
1 cup sugar
1 cup dark brown sugar
2 eggs
1 1/4 cups buttermilk
1/4 cup canola or safflower oil (you could even use coconut oil as it’s mild in flavor)
1 tsp. vanilla extract plus 1 tsp. vanilla paste
1/2 cup dried plum puree (see note above)
1/2 cup hot water
1 cup semi sweet chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sift the dry ingredients, except for the sugars, together. In a mixing bowl blend the sugars with the eggs. Alternate adding the remaining liquids with the dry ingredients until all incorporated.
Fold in the chocolate chips and pour into a prepared bundt pan. Bake for 45 minutes or until a toothpick come out clean when pushed through the center of the cake. Allow to cool for 10 to 20 minutes before turning out on to a plate and serving.
November 17th, 2010
This stuffed cauliflower is really worth trying. It’s such a great play on textures and flavors. The stuffing alone is delicious as is the gingery tomato sauce. Get creative and use them as components in your other culinary creations.
This Meatless Monday meal was inspired by the wonderful spices available at Savory Spice.
Coconut Milk Powder is my new pantry staple. Instead of using 1 Tbsp. from a can, you can just reconstitute coconut milk powder in water. It’s a bit lighter and not as creamy which is a nice twist.
Mango Powder is used in India to makes things slightly sour. In this dressing, it plays nice with the creamy, sweetness of the avocado and the pungent onions (please stay tuned for the recipe).
Red lentils are a wonder. Click here for some of our red lentil recipes. They take no time to cook and served alongside the whole baked cauliflower, which you can partially prepare on Sunday and then bake on Monday, makes a lovely dinner.
For Tomato Sauce:
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup diced onion
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
2 cups diced tomatoes (Muir Glenn Fire Roasted is really good here)
1 cup water
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons freshly chopped cilantro
Heat the oil in a non-reactive large saute pan and add the onions and cook until soft. Add the cumin and stir occasionally for 1 minute.
Now add the ginger and cook for another minute. Next pour in the tomatoes and the water and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Add cilantro, cover and turn off heat.
For Stuffed Cauliflower:
1 1/2 cups diced onion
1 1/2 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 Anaheim chilies, diced
1 1/2 tablespoon ground coriander seeds
2 tablespoons ground almonds or pistachios, plus more for garnishing
1 head of cauliflower
2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds, or 1 tsp. yellow, 1 tsp. brown
Heat the oil in a large pan and add the onions. Once onions are soft, add the chilies and the garlic stir around and then add the ginger and coriander and mix well.
Now the almonds or pistachios and the mustard seeds can be added. Stir and cook for 5 minutes, Season with salt and pepper. Mixture should be rather crumbly in texture. Turn off heat and allow mixture to cool completely.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Gently stuff the mixture into the seams of the cooled cauliflower florets. Spread the remaining stuffing over the top.
Place cauliflower head into a shallow baking dish. If you have extra nuts, sprinkle them over the top and pour about 1 to 2 Tbsp. of extra vegetable oil over the top. Ladle some of the tomato sauce around the stuffed cauliflower and spoon a bit on top. Bake the cauliflower for 25 minutes.
To serve: Reheat the tomato sauce. Pour a little sauce on the bottom of a serving platter. Place cauliflower on top. Pour more sauce on top and garnish with freshly chopped cilantro and nuts. Cut into the cauliflower like a cake and serve with sauce on top.
October 11th, 2010
A recent trip to Mexico preceded by Natural Products Expo inspired this post. Coconut water is a natural isotonic. Next to water it is the best way to rehydrate if you are dehydrated which is the main reason why athletes and weekend warriors alike are buying the retail brands Zico and O.N.E.
I’ve tasted most of the retail coconut waters and can safely say that aside from having fresh coconut water right out of the coconut, the two brands mentioned are the best -bar none.
This is because the water is extracted from young coconuts, or rather coconuts that are about 7 months into their maturing process. The meat of the coconut has not yet developed. Zico and O.N.E. are manufactured in their country of origin which is Brazil.
Coconut water takes a little getting used to which is why these brands are adding natural flavor. Believe it or not but coconut waters do vary in flavor, not only from country to country but from tree to tree,
The Mexican coconuts above were very different in taste. The one on the right, known as Naranja because of its orange color, was sweeter than the greener ones on the left.
On Cozumel, I saw many coconut water cocktails. There was one called Mexican Gatorade which was made with rum that claimed you wouldn’t get a hangover from it. Indeed because of its rich potassium content, it does make a great refresher if you over imbibe. I like to make agua frescas using coconut water. With all this hot summer weather, this recipe is worth a try.
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Using fresh is great but then you are left with having to deal with getting the meat out. The coconut pictured above is actually a mature coconut that I used in Shanghai while developing drinks for a client.
The recipes below use O.N.E. brand in the quart size package. I chose watermelon as the Chinese believe watermelon to be very cooling. You can try using strawberries and mangoes. If you use frozen fruit, you can omit the ice.
Depending on the sweetness of the fruit, you might not need any simple syrup. Simple syrup is made easily by boiling 1 cup water with 1 cup of sugar until the sugar dissolves. Allow to cool before using. During the summer I store simple syrup in the refrigerator so that I can make homemade lemonade and agua frescas anytime.
Coconut Agua Fresca
2 cups coconut water
1 cup fresh watermelon or cantelope, no rind
a few cubes of ice
simple syrup, to taste (Kim’s mint syrup would be a great choice)
In a blender place the ice, coconut water and cut up melon. Process until all the ice is broken up.
Add simple syrup, 3 Tbsp. at a time, until you get it to your desired sweetness. Pour into glasses and enjoy!
August 6th, 2010
A few weeks back, we were invited to participate in a recipe contest using Tasteful Selections baby potatoes. Being a lover of the spud, I couldn’t refuse! Aren’t they the cutest potatoes you have ever seen?
My intention was to come up with a quick cooking dinner that could be served al fresco with some good vino. I am happy to report success: Tender potatoes in a spicy, smoky sauce studded with thick slices of chorizo all in one pot.
The thick and hearty tomato sauce is seasoned with smoked paprika, aromatic garlic and sliced onions. You could use any of the potato varieties for this dish, I really liked the look of the red on red.
We enjoyed the meal on its own but you could certainly add some corn on the cob, a simple cheese plate and/or some fresh summer fruit for dessert.
One Pan Spicy Potatoes with Chorizo
Serves 5
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 lb. chorizo, cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
1 1/2 tsp. minced garlic, about 3 cloves
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper, more to taste
1/2 tsp. smoked paprika
1/2 tsp. kosher salt, more to taste
1 (28-oz.) pkg. Tasteful Selections Ruby Sensation Potatoes, halved lengthwise
1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
2 Tbsp. thinly sliced chives or finely chopped parsley (optional garnish)
Add the olive oil to a heavy bottomed pot over medium heat. When hot, add the chorizo and cook for about 5 minutes until nicely browned. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the chorizo to a plate.
Add the garlic, onion, jalapeno, crushed red pepper, paprika, and salt to the pot, cook and stir until quite fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the potatoes and stir well to coat them with the seasonings.
Add the diced tomatoes and the crushed tomatoes. Stir well. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cover. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Add the chorizo back to the pot and stir well, vent the lid and cook for an additional 10 – 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and the sauce is somewhat thickened.
Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl. If using, garnish the dish with chives or parsley. Serve hot or warm.
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmjFT11moAY
July 28th, 2010
We recently became the recipients of some Montana wheatberries via Marco’s banjo teacher, Kevin, who is trying to work his way through a 40 lb. bag. Always up for a challenge, I immediately thought about some summery salads that would incorporate wheatberries
There was some trial and error with regard to cooking the wheatberries but once that was mastered, it has been smooth sailing. For our gluten-free readers, cooked brown rice is an easy (and tasty) substitute for the wheatberries.
Wheatberries
Soak 1 cup of wheatberries overnight or quick soak them (Cover wheatberries with ample water, boil for 5 minutes, turn off heat. Cover and let sit for 1 hour. Drain.).
Bring pre-soaked wheatberries, 8 cups of water and 1 tsp kosher to a boil over high heat. Simmer, uncovered, for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until wheatberries are tender. The wheatberries will appear to puff slightly. Drain and rinse with cool water.
At this point, the cooked wheatberries should be stored in the fridge until needed. If you are into batch cooking, the cooked wheatberries could also be frozen for soups and other grain mixes.
Summer Wheatberry Salad
Serves 4
Hearty beans, summer corn, toothsome wheatberries and briny feta make salad a perfect Meatless Monday meal and other than cooking the wheatberries (which can be done ahead of time), it requires no cooking.
Dressing
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tsp. sherry vinegar
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/8 tsp. ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Salad
1 cup fresh cooked corn off the cob or frozen corn, thawed
1 cup cooked wheatberries
1 cup white beans
1/2 orange bell pepper, chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp. lemon zest
2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped (sub any summer tomatoes)
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
To make the dressing, whisk together all of the ingredients in a small bowl, Set aside.
Add all of the salad ingredients, except to feta, to a medium serving bow and mix to combine. Drizzle prepared dressing over the salad and toss well.
Garnish with crumbled feta.
July 5th, 2010
A recent work project has me making ice cream! A recipe for homemade honey ice cream is offered below.
I wish I could use liquid nitrogen as it is far more dramatic. I don’t even know where to begin on this part of the lecture series as I was so mesmerized by the liquid nitrogen.
Harold McGee started off with a brief history if ice cream along with a sample of what would be considered the first ice cream. Click here to read his account and technique for making "instant ice cream." Dave Arnold’s raspberry concoction was made by pouring in liquid nitrogen. It was part of his quest to try and replicate Salep dondurma – or Turkish ice cream.
This unique frozen concoction has a secret ingredient that is illegal to take out of Turkey, it is so highly revered and impossible to reproduce commercially. To read more about it click here.
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In the course of my research, I rediscovered one of my favorite Saveur articles on the world of ice cream. It was published back in 2001. Coming up with the flavors and making them outstanding for a commercial package is harder than you think.
Ice cream always tastes unbelievably the best just after it’s been processed. Still gooey and nicely chilled, the texture is dreamy and no commercial ice cream can come close to the almost chewy texture.
Once ice cream firms up and sits in the freezer, it changes in flavor as well as in texture. I love my Cuisinart ice cream maker and once you make ice cream, like most things, it gets easier and easier and more fun to do as you become less intimidated by the process and more creative.
And if you don’t even want to bother with making the custard, Kim’s No Cook Vanilla from July 2009 is fantastic.
This recipe – however is slightly old school. It does require making a custard. I recommend a nice clover or star thistle honey. Creamed honey would also work nicely but anything darker would be a bit overbearing.
You can easily make this into cinnamon ice cream by replacing the honey with 1 cup of sugar and 1 tsp. cinnamon. Serve it with the Mexican Chocolate Sauce featured a few weeks back.
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Honey of a Honey Ice Cream
It really helps to have a candy thermometer so that you don’t over cook the eggs.
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
5 egg yolks
3/4 cup honey
In a heavy bottom an heat the cream and milk and bring to almost a boil. In a another bowl whisk together the honey and the eggs. Using a ladel, slowly pour some of the hot milk mixture into the eggs while whisking.
Keep pouring until all the milk is gone and the eggs are "tempered". Return mixture to the pot and cook on moderately low heat until the thermometer reads 110 degrees. Stir constantly and do not allow the mixture to boil, this will cook the eggs. If you don’t have a thermometer then you can tell when the custard is ready when it coats the back of a spoon
At this point, remove from heat and pour the custard into another bowl (If you are nervous about having cooked the eggs, pour the mixture through a fine mesh sieve). Allow to cool completely.
You can speed this process up by placing the bowl into a ice water bath and stirring occasioanlly to release some of the heat. I like to refrigerate my custard for a few hours before processing. Usually I make the custard the day before want to have homemade ice cream or at least in the morning.
Process according to your ice cream maker’s instructions. Once it comes right out of the ice cream maker, I think it’s perfect to eat. It is also the best consistency for making ice cream cookies, cakes and for filling roulades.
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June 18th, 2010
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